Vitamin supplements, vitamin drops, vitamin preparations
In pet shops, a variety of vitamin preparations are offered, which (according to the package recommendation) should be administered daily to ensure the health of the rabbits and prevent deficiency diseases.
The species-appropriate diet cannot be replaced by vitamin preparations, there are more than 100 other substances that are important for the health and well-being of rabbits and are absorbed through the diet. That means: A species-appropriate nutrition is inevitable independent of added vitamins. And if you eat a species-appropriate diet anyway, you don't need synthetic vitamins in return. Now, if you do not feed species-appropriate, artificial vitamins may be "better than nothing" but such a diet I can not recommend.
Why is it better to cover the demand naturally than via synthetic vitamins??
– Chemically, artificial and natural vitamins are not identical, z.B. Natural vitamin E: RRR-a- tocopherol = d-a- tocopherol Synthetic vitamin E: all-rac-a- tocopherol = d,l-a- tocopherol – The full effect of vitamins only when they are integrated into all the accompanying substances of the plant, they then have a much more positive effect on health than synthetic vitamins – The substances that we take as synthetic vitamins to us, do not exist in nature so. As a comparison you may remember your chemistry lessons. A substance has completely different properties when it is mixed with another substance or separately. For example, uranium is found in water and rocks (harmless), but if you take it out now and use it in its pure form, you should not have direct contact with it. – The bioavailability and absorption is higher than with synthetic vitamins. – An overdose of natural vitamins (which are integrated into their milieu in the plant) is not harmful, but if the substance is administered pure (not integrated into a natural milieu), i.e. z.B. synthetic vitamins, then an overdose is often harmful. – Plant compounds increase the effectiveness of the vitamin, synthetic vitamins do not contain these compounds (e.g., vitamin supplements, vitamin drops, vitamin preparations).B. the vitamin C experiences a fourfold improvement in effect due to bioflavonoids) – the risk of allergies and undesirable effects is reduced
In addition, the dosage recommendations are usually inevitably associated with overdosage. The preparations contain the whole range of vitamins, without being exactly adapted to the needs of rabbits or the individual animal. They are mostly recommended for all small animals, although these animals have completely different needs.
Therefore I recommend to leave the fingers from such products. They are not necessary but harmful to health and in the worst case can lead to serious damage and disease!
In case of illness, special vitamin supplements may be necessary. For example, the administration of vitamin B complex at E. Cuniculi. Consult your veterinarian about such doses and dose them carefully. If a veterinarian recommends vitamin preparations on principle (regardless of the disease), this is not sensible but only shows that he is interested in selling these preparations – at the expense of the animal health. Many minerals contained in salt. Trace elements are essential for rabbits to survive. However, table salt is highly purified, so you would have to feed the rabbit huge amounts of table salt to meet this need for minerals.
Salt licks consist of common salt. However, high doses of sodium chloride are toxic to the organism in this isolated form. Small amounts are excreted through the kidneys, larger amounts overload the kidneys, which can lead to serious kidney damage or even kidney failure. Salt has a dehydrating effect, due to the resulting lack of water, the poisonous table salt can no longer be diluted and has a correspondingly more harmful effect on the organism. It comes to saline poisoning.
Rabbits therefore have a need for natural salts, trace elements and minerals, but these have long been absent from the salt stone, but the salt stone is so highly concentrated that it can lead to poisoning even when normal amounts are ingested.
The need for minerals and salts can usually be covered well and harmlessly through the green fodder, soil (outdoor housing) or offered branches, whose bark is gnawed off.
If you want to offer a salt stone, you should not choose a cooking salt stone from the pet store, but a Himalayan salt stone (resp. offer another natural salt stone, natural quarry stone). To exclude the consumption out of boredom (then it can be harmful to health), it should not be offered in the enclosure, but only in the free run. A natural salt lick can therefore be offered as a sensible supplement in the free range, especially in the case of certain diseases with a high mineral requirement.
Commercially available, completely unsuitable salt lick.
A Himalayan salt lick as it z.B. offered in the trade by JR Farm.
Lime or rodent stones
These consist primarily of calcium. However, the lime requirement is more than adequately covered by normal feeding. Excess calcium destroys the calcium-phosphorus balance in the body, resulting in a wide variety of diseases, such as.B. Bladder stones or urinary gravel.
seeds and germination feed
Seeds of various plants should always be considered as supplementary food.
seeds during coat changes:
Oilseeds of all kinds, especially ground linseeds and sunflower seeds. guideline: for dwarf rabbits up to 1 tsp 1-3x/week.
Seeds as an energy supplier:
Increased energy requirements may exist for: Young animals in growth, breeding animals (especially extreme during lactation)!), diseases, outdoor animals in frost, large breeds, unbalanced feeding, in the fall to eat the protective "winter fat" … Here, a seed mixture consisting of two-thirds flour seeds and one-third oil seeds is recommended. Never more than half a tsp. per day per animal should be given.
Seeds as a dietary supplement:
Especially oil seeds contain important fatty acids, which are essential for rabbits. Therefore, they can be fed regularly in smaller quantities.
Oil cake, press cake
Oil production produces press cake, which is very valuable in nutrition. Caution is advised with press cake in pellet form, it can get into the windpipe, with life-threatening consequences. Alternatively, the oil can be mixed into the feed in small quantities. Please never give more than half a pellet or one pellet per day. Feeding animal! Overweight rabbits are not allowed to be fed with it. Overweight rabbits must not be fed with it.
Germ food is germinated seeds. Due to the germ, nutrients can be better utilized and incompatibilities and digestive problems with seeds can be circumvented. Wheat germ contains very large amounts of vitamin E.
Healing clay can be offered if the rabbits do not have access to natural soil. It is used to neutralize toxins. Used for mineral absorption. Furthermore it helps with diarrhea. It is available in stores or via the Internet.
Ginger (boosts the immune system, especially for digestive problems, joint diseases, cancer, colds, abscesses/pus, worms…) Ginger is an insanely healthy supplement for rabbits and very well researched, unfortunately not all points are researched on rabbits. What ginger can do:
In general – stimulate the immune system – act against bacteria, fungi, parasites and worms – act anti-inflammatory and analgesic – stimulate metabolism – regulate digestion Effect on the respiratory tract – due to its anti-inflammatory effect it can z.B. Nevertheless, ginger is of course not a "panacea" but it is as a dietary supplement. Useful in sick animals as a support for treatment. In the photos you can see how it is simply prepared and fed (grate and mix with banana, which can be easily mashed with a fork), most rabbits love it in this form after initial skepticism. Start with really very small amounts (a few raspers in a lot of banana) and increase the amount very slowly! After very slow acclimatization, it is eventually even eaten plain.